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engine noise?

Jan 21, 2008 by Mike J | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I have a 88 chevy silverado with 350 engine, recently I noticed a squealing noise under my hood and it is mostly noticeable when I start up the truck or when its idling. I think its my belt but I am not sure? What could be the problem, and how do I

Sounds very much like your alternator belt. One of the mounts of the alternator should be adjustable. You need to adjust it so the belt does not have an much flex and has about 1/2 inch flex instead

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Engine Rebuilt

The average life of the engine was about five to seven years. After 60,000 to 80,000 miles of daily driving, most drivers have an oil consumption problem to develop and wear experience (loss of compression, loss of power, increased emissions to reduce start oil pressure, internal noise, etc. ..) Carburetors are partly responsible for the wear, because the fuel mixture rich wash lubricating oil off the cylinder walls and dilute the crankcase oil. These older engines are much “looser” (wider tolerances) than most of the engines of today, which also increased blowby built. Therefore, rings, bearings and valve guides are all experienced accelerated. Improvements in engine technology have extended engine life and reduces the need for the engine. Despite this, the hollow current technology “goes by the number of engines to be replaced and rebuilt to once again increase. The number of five to 10 years, light trucks on the road, for example, rose from 18 million euros in 1985 to almost 60 million now. Many of these engines will be long before work. Replacing an engine with a brand new one is usually too expensive for the budgets of many people, so the choice comes down to a rebuilt engine (or the short block), a used engine (and the risks that go with), or restoring or repairing your engine. A used engine is a temporary solution at best, and buy only the current owner a little more time. Sooner or later, most used engines experience problems of their own and must be replaced or converted, too. remanufactured engines are a popular option these days because they are readily available at competitive prices, resulting in a decrease in the number of custom engines are remanufactured (charged) to the repair facilities and workshops machining. A quality rebuilt engine, a good price for investment, and most come with a 90 days warranty for one year. Although there are still good reasons for your engine to work. Rebuilding an engine can be cheaper to replace. Assuming that the original engine repair (the wear is not excessive and no serious injuries) and the amount of work needed to restore the machine is minimal, you can reach 20% 50% or more in the doing of rebuilding the motor. The savings come from the work you put in the demolition of the machine, then go after a working machine is carried out. If the cylinders are worn, they must be bored or matured to oversized pistons and rings to accept. Otherwise, you can create a glaze breaker holes and do the work itself. If you do not have a valve and seat resurfacing equipment should be forwarded. Worn guides can be removed from, replaced or relined internally with some special tools. But these jobs as head resurfacing, boring, crankshaft finishing, etc., should be entrusted. Find a local computer shop of good reputation that you can use for this work. Another reason for your engine to work is to control the quality of the parts and labor that goes into the engine. It’s something you can not control when you buy an engine from an external source. It may be superior, or it can not. But you would not know ‘the hard way. “The truth is, some remanufacturer to a much higher percentage than other parts, of course reuse to save costs. You can also save money by buying the components you need an engine kit instead of individually. A kit contains everything you need in one box and reduced the risk of inadequate parts. The parts kits typically include bearings, coaches, pistons, timing chain and gears, valve seals, gaskets, oil pump, camshaft, lifters and other miscellaneous items. New crankshaft bearings are almost always a must when restoring an engine. If you remove the old bearings to be inspected for abnormal wear or damage such as scoring, sweeping dirt and debris embedded in the bearing surfaces, pitting or flaking. Any other than normal wear could indicate an underlying problem that must be corrected before the new bearings are installed. Excessive heat can be another cause of bearing failure. The bearings are mainly cooled by circulating oil between the bearing and the journal. Something that disrupts or reduces the flow of oil not only increases the temperature of the bearings, but also increases the risk of marking or clearing the land. Conditions the flow of oil and the bearings can reduce to a worn oil pump drive is called restricted oil pickup screen, internal oil leak, low oil in the crankcase oil, gas (oil level too high), the diluted oil blowby coolant or excessive oil contaminated by leaking coolant internally. Misalignment is a condition that may indicate need for further work. If the main center bearings are more worn than at each end of the crankshaft, the crankshaft can be bent or key holes can be aligned. The straightness of the crank can be checked by placing it on V-blocks, a dial on the center position of the newspaper and watching the indicator as the crank is turned one full turn. If eccentricity exceeds the limits, the pendulum must be corrected or replaced. Bore alignment can be checked by inserting a bar about 0.001 inches smaller than the main bore through the block with main caps installed and tightened. If the bar is not easy to run, the block is align bored. The alignment can also be checked by a straight line and a feeler gauge. A difference of more than 0.0015 inches in every hole requires adjustment of boring. drilling should be done as one of the main cap is replaced. To check the wear of the crankshaft journals cone (a little more worn than the other), barrel wear (ends worn more than the center) or hourglass wear (wear more than the ends), measure the diameter of the center log in and Both Ends. Again, the generally accepted limit for taper wear has usually 0.001 inch, but today it ranges from 0.0003 to 0.0005 inch for guests 2 cm in diameter. The diameter must itself be reviewed within 0.001 inches of its original size, or within 0.001 inch standard sizes for regrind permits oil with a lower replacement. If a newspaper has been cut, there is usually a mark Machinist mentioned by the newspaper. 10, 20 or 30 indicates that the crank is under the earth, and that other tightening may be in demand depending on how the crankshaft is worn. If your new bearings installed, make sure you have the correct size (standard size for a standard crank, or oversized bearings for crank below) that the permissions of the installed checked the bearings for prelubed against a dry start the oil holes and cracks in the bearings are all in place, and the main stem and bolts of the CAP are tightened to specifications. Camshaft wear in high mileage engines is a common problem, to the rafters to carefully inspect to see if it is worn or bent. If the engine has a new camera, a camera or use a stock replacement camshaft performance. Performance cams provide better lift and duration for more power. If you opt for a hotter cam, make sure that the recommendations under camshaft supplier for a lift and duration to follow. A common mistake is overcamming street engine. Too much elevator moves and the duration of the power curve of the motor too far on the ladder of rpm, and may require other significant changes, such as larger valves, stiffer valve springs, headers and performance changes in the carburetor or fuel injection system for optimum performance . Besides a new cam, the motor can also be a new timing belt or chain and sprockets. The recommended interval for replacement of timing belts on most older engines (those manufactured before 1993) is 60,000 miles. The replacement interval for many new belts has increased to 100,000 miles. chains do not change interval is specified, but not increase with age. This has a negative effect on the timing and ignition, chain and sprockets must be replaced if the wear exceeds specifications.

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